Food, Art, and Activism: Inside Ghetto Gastro’s World
In life, it’s normal to have expectations based on what something appears to be. Your appearance communicates without speaking. All it takes is a glance to glean an idea of who someone is and what they represent. Whether or not your presumption is accurate is a different story altogether. A stereotype is both good and bad, acting as a bridge to understanding the unknown, while simultaneously restricting an idea to a box. Everyone must navigate the murky lens through which they appear, some more than others.
In the Black community, it’s called “code switching,” and entails adjusting how you present yourself in varying situations so as not to come across as “too Black.” While the experience isn’t exclusive to Black people, it’s a common phenomenon. Ghetto Gastro is a successful Black-owned food collective that has managed to stay true to its culture, beliefs, and mission without having to code switch. It consists of three members: Cultural dot-connector Jon Gray, and culinary artists Lester Walker and Pierre Serrao.
Inspired by Hip Hop, Ghetto Gastro is more du rags and Timberlands than white aprons and chef hats. Classics like Nas’ “The World Is Yours” and KRS One’s “The South Bronx” provide the soundtrack in place of classical music. The sampling nature of Hip Hop mirrors the Ghetto Gastro manifesto of sourcing inspiration from disparate cultures. “We wanted to share stories of our heritage, the diaspora and food we grew up eating… and do it in a jiggy way of course,” Lester says.
New York-bred and Bronx-based, the Ghetto Gastro uses food as a way to share Black, Brown, and Asian cultural traditions through curated experiences that intersect fashion, art, activism, design, and music. Their resume also includes authoring the Black Power Kitchen cookbook, a product line of breakfast foods, and a cookware collaboration with CRUX. Growing celebrity aside, social activism is the main driver behind their movement, with the goal of reframing the concept of “ghetto” as a positive representation of community.
The Black Power Kitchen Book is the first cookbook released by Ghetto Gastro and has been called their “bible.” Along with original recipes, it includes historical photography and thought-pieces on topics like resistance, rebellion, and even Black motherhood. Released in 2022 and only made available online and at Black-owned book shops, it was written with James Beard Award-winning writer Osayi Endolyn. Reading the Black Power Kitchen Book is intended to feed the heart and soul as much as it will your belly.
“BIBLE is an acronym for Basic Instructions Before Leaving Earth, we borrowed that from Wu Tang’s Masta Killa. Black Power Kitchen holds significant importance to us as it embodies reclaiming cultural heritage through culinary expression. It serves as a guiding principle and a celebration of Black culture and empowerment through food.”
Ghetto Gastro infuses their distinctive touch into 75 recipes, featuring creations like the Black Power Waffle, inspired by the phrase coined by Pan-African leader Stokely Carmichael. Other highlights include Red Drank, a beloved diasporic beverage crafted from roselle hibiscus, and Amerikkkan Apple Pie, a deconstructed rendition of the classic dessert that serves as a poignant commentary on the treatment of Black individuals in America and globally. Along with sustenance, there’s substance; each recipe entry is accompanied by an explanation of its connection to the African diaspora.
As of July 2023, you can find Ghetto Gastro’s exclusive line of breakfast products at Target locations nationwide. It includes Sweet Potato Pancake & Waffle Mix, Spicy Maple Syrup, and Chocolate Raspberry Toaster Pastries, to name a few. The toaster pastries, humorously nicknamed “Bop-tarts,” are the perfect balance of nostalgic yet contemporary flavors. Their pancake and waffle mix is equally delicious, and has a fluffy texture without needing an egg. Ghetto Gastro’s products not only taste good, but are good for you, and now widely available.
Beyond having your breakfast covered, Ghetto Gastro partnered with CRUX on a Target-exclusive line of branded cookware. From a toaster and air fryer to a waffle maker and ceramic nonstick searing grill, the CRUXGG collection will get the job done with style.
Moving forward, Ghetto Gastro plans to continue highlighting ancestral ingredients while telling stories through high-quality, healthy food. Outside of curated events and dope products, they’ve partnered with several nonprofits like Rethink Food, which aims to bridge the gap between food waste and food insecurity. In 2020, over 30,000 free meals were served to the Bronx community, and thanks to partnerships with brands, they were able to raise $250,000 for Rethink.
Furthermore, the collective hopes to improve the quality and diversity of school lunches, with an emphasis on access to fresh and plant-based options. You can follow the Ghetto Gastro movement on Instagram, and purchase their products here.
