This Restaurant Gives Families Reservations For Life

Rao’s is a legendary restaurant that you’ve likely heard of and much more likely never ever dined in. Don’t worry, that’s kind of why it’s famous. Largely accepted as the definitive “toughest place to get a reservation,” Rao’s caters to its historical place in classic New York City culture. It’s a very, very tiny eatery—say, a dozen tables—that’s been a go-to for regulars and a wondrous mystery for the rest of the country for more than a century.

What’s its history?

If you read anything about the joint, from its regulars (such as Woody Allen and Martin Scorsese) to its decor (which has since been copied by Italian restaurants across the country), it’s quintessential New York City. Founded in 1896 in East Harlem, Rao’s wasn’t always famous for its near-impossible reservations. That didn’t start until 1977, when a three-star review by Mimi Sheraton of The New York Times made demand overwhelming, so they just started assigning tables to regulars and then they were booked forever.

How do you get a reservation?

New York Magazine’s blog Grub Street once declared it easier to score a dinner at the White House than Rao’s, pointing out there was a reason one of the restaurant’s owners, Frank Pelligrino, has been called “Frankie No.” So how do you get a table? You either own the table, you’re a guest of someone who does, or you’ve been loaned the table by someone who does. It’s like season tickets, really. There are weeklies, bi-weeklies, monthlies, and quarterlies. You just have to inform Pelligrino if nobody’s going to use your table when you have it reserved.

What’s the dining experience?

Meals begin with a drink at the bar that’s served by Nick “The Vest” Zaloumis (nicknamed for his100+ colorful, sometimes shimmering vests). Someone pulls up a chair and lists off all the food options, since there are no menus. It gives you the chance to customize your dinner—any meat, any sauce, any pasta.

How has it changed?

The original New York spot really hasn’t changed, but in recent years, they’ve opened locations in Las Vegas and Los Angeles. While the Las Vegas Rao’s inside Caesar’s Palace seems to be closer to the original than the Los Angeles spot—even having something called “Rao’s Room,” which is essentially a restaurant within a restaurant that’s practically a reproduction of the NYC Rao’s—it seems to be widely agreed that you can’t recreate magic.